‘Chee cheong fan, one please,’ I ask the lady who is stooped, scowling, behind the counter. ‘Pork. You can, ah?’ she retorts. ‘No problem’ ‘Chilli? Dai, ah. Dai dai.’ ‘Please, and a coffee. Kopi o. Siew dai, okay?’ ‘Can. You sit, ah. I bring’ and she smiles as she takes